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Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Reclaiming Beauty From The Trend Setters


1940s Overcoat

The folks over at The Orthospehre have a post up called The Incipient Orthodoxy of the Androsphere, authored by Kristor.

A commentator from the site sent in a link of a man in an overcoat, posted at The Art of Manliness, which linked it from a site called The Sartorialist.

The most I can find out about the photograph is that it is a vintage photograph of the 1940s.

I think the cathedral behind the man is the Milan Cathedral.



Now back to this "sartorialist." I was so sure that The Sartorialist was a woman, and a young woman at that. The female "fashion" on the site is full of the slovenly, baggy, shorts and mini-skirts, with flat heels. The women rarely wear skirts or dresses. This is pretty much the uniform of women up to their mid-twenties these days. Older women don't do much better. In fact, they seem to have abandoned style altogether.

I shouldn't have assumed (that The Sartorialist was a woman).

The "Biography" section of the site has this:
Founder/blogger/photographer Scott Schuman began The Sartorialist with the idea of creating a two-way dialogue about the world of fashion and its relationship to daily life.
Apparently he is a big-shot photographer with work in various fashion magazines including GQ, Vogue Italia, and Vogue Paris.



And above is a photo of him, all in black, wearing those ubiquitious jeans which look like they could do with a wash, and he has looped his scarf around his neck. His overcoat looks a size too small for him. And his leather gloves are thick and clumsy- no fine leather for him. He looks like he visits tanning salons. His hair is groomed in a forties-style slick, which might be the only thing that resembles the man at the top, although the 1940s man has restrained the hair oil making his hair more attractive.

I wonder why Schuman takes photos: a) of girls, and not women, and b) why these "girls" came out wearing things that look like they dragged out of their laundry baskets?

His "On the Street" photos copy (there's no other word) the approach of the New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham, who is much wittier, and more whimsical, than Schuman (granted, Cunningham does take photos of clumsy New Yorkers, but he looks for beauty wherever he goes).


Right: Bill Cunningham's whimsical hat
Left: Scott Schuman's protruding bag


I wonder if Schuman is gay, of the hard, harsh homosexual tribe which hates women?

Apparently not (not gay). His Wikipedia profile says:
Scott Schuman has been dating the prominent French street-fashion photographer and illustrator Garance Doré since 2008.
And who is Garance Doré? Here is her Wikipedia profile:
Garance Doré (born May 1, 1975 in Corsica, France) is a French photographer, illustrator and author, best known for her fashion blog.
Her latest blog posting is this:

And this is what she posts under the photograph:
Overalls, bermudas, sneakers, boyfriend jeans, boyfriend shirts, tuxedos, baseball caps… If you put together everything that’s in style right now, you’d find yourself dressing like a guy real fast.

How do you figure out the right amount?

I think it depends on who it is. Some girls can be super sexy in a t-shirt and baggy pants, even with a pair of sneakers on.

I find that for me, it’s good to balance everything out with a few accessories – and I think Yasmin here has it going for her.

Her overalls fall perfectly and aren’t too too big. The mix of prints is discrete but changes everything. The clutch adds the right amount of sophistication and the flip flops (I started loving flip flops but that’s a conversation for later) are so simple and show some skin…

A tomboy and casual look that totally works!

What accessories would you choose to add a little femininity to a boyfriend outfit?

———

PS: The clutch and the overalls are both designs by the always amazing Yasmin!
And this what Doré looks like:


Top right, Doré is with Schuman

The perfect blend of maternal/tomboyish/slackly stylish/occasionally stern combination of a woman. A "metrosexual" man's girlfriend. And both have identity problems: "Am I a male/female? How can I look like a teenager (even though I'm in my late thirties)? Should I look soft and feminine, or hard and feminist (Garance)? Can I be a nice guy, or an alpha male (Scott)?

There is not any genuine femininity or softness about Doré. Where she does look less foreboding (top left), she is less feminine and soft, and more martyr-like. In her casual, "happy" photo (bottom right), she looks like a teenager rather than the thirty-seven year-old she is.

Her illustrations appear in a monthly column on Paris Vogue. But her scratchy, unfinished, renditions



do not compare with Vogue illustrations of the early 20th century.


Vogue Cover, April 1, 1918
Illustration by George Wolfe Plank


And even her humor is non-existent (she does write in French Vogue's "Humeur" section). She tries to be ironic, but she's too straightforward to evoke any kind of word play, as this September 2012 article shows:



Here is a larger version of the article (a little more legible)

Below is a close-up of her scratchy rendition of a woman in a tuxedo (smoking, in French).



How avant-garde and daring, a woman in a tuxedo, no less. The problem with contemporary avant-gardists is that everything they're doing has been done before, and with more aplomb. Look at Marelene Deitriech, who carries tuxes and gowns with equal ease.



In our era of a retarded culture, with adolescent relationships of adrogyny, undetermined sexuality in fashion, and crude art, the best we can do is to refuse to accept these trend setters, and denounce them at any chance. This blog, with its aim to reclaim beauty, is trying to do that, one step at a time.
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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