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Friday, August 2, 2013

Hermes


Minerva, Mercury and Hercules (Greek equivalents: Athena, Hermes and Heracles)
Grand Central Terminal, New York City


Sculptures designed by Jules Coutan:
...a symmetrical massing of figurative scluptures titled "The Glory of Commerce." This colossal 48-ft (14.6m)-high sculptural trio depicts Mercury (the personification of travel and speed) flanked by Hercules and Minerva and was designed by French scholar and Ecole Des Beaux-Arts professor Jules-Alexis Coutan (1848-1849).

At its base is an ornamental cornice that frames a typographic frieze of all-capacity serif letters identifying the edifice in a ceremonial and formal manner reminiscent of early Roman triumph arches.

[From: Graphic Design and Architecture, A 20th Century History: A Guide to Type, Image, Symbol, and Visual Storytelling in the Modern World, P 558 Richard Poulin]
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Hermes luggage, ca. 1930, designed for Karen Blixen, author of "Out of Africa."
I'm not sure if these are the original suitcases, which were made of crocodile skin

Zeus was [Hermes's] father and Maia, daughter of Atlas, his mother. Because of a very popular statue his appearance is more familiar to us than that of any other god. He was graceful and swift of motion. On his feet were winged sandals; wings were on his low-crowned hat, too, and on his magic wand, the Caduceus. He was Zeus's Messenger, who "flies as fleet as thought to do his bidding."

Of all the gods he was the shrewdest and most cunning; in fact he was the Master Thief, who started upon his career before he was a day old.
The babe was born at the breakof the day,
And ere the night fell he had stolen away
Apollo's herds.
Zeus made him give them back, and he won Apollo's forgiveness by presenting him with they lyre which he had just invented, making it out of a tortoise's shell. Perhaps there was some connection between that very early story of him and the fact that he was God of Commerce and the Market, protector of traders.

In odd contrast to this idea of him, he was also the solemn guide of the dead, the Divine Herald who led the souls down to their last home.

He appears oftener in the tales of mythology than any other god. [From: Mythology, By Edith Hamilton. Pp34-35].
One note, to contradict the great Edith Hamilton: I don't think Pan's guide for the dead is an odd contrast to "this idea of him." Death is also a journey, albeit our last journey that leads our soul to our last home.

This book was suggested to me by Lawrence Auster, to familiarize me with ancient mythologies, and to provide me with a better understanding of the roots of Western civilization. It is a pleasure to read, like a story of the gods rather than a dry, scholarly book. But, as I research more on the book, Hamilton hasn't short-changed any of the gods - or else those mischievous ones, like Hermes's son Pan, might make her a visit.

It is fitting that Hermes should choose this mischievious god as its label, who is also the protector for commerce, market and trade.

Before Hermes became such a prestigious design label, his family's origins were as harness makers (speed and travel, again). They naturally evolved to saddlery, then designed bags to carry the saddles (see below for more information). to

What is fortuitous, though, is that Hermes is the actual family name of this design label. It is as though the decision for them to lead in travel accessories was written in their name!


Orion, a contemporary Hermes suitcase
In aluminium with handles,
straps and interior in natural cowhide.
Going for a mere $10,300.00

After Orion the hunter, the giant in
Greek mythology
?

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I tried to find some scents with the linden flower. Hermes makes one which I had identified as Aroma D'Orange Verte. I went to Holts Renfrew (the high-priced Hermes perfumes are not available in Sears or the Bay) to look for it. It has a pleasant, slightly citrusy, slightly floral scent. I can identify the sweet linden flower. The perfume (it is an eau de toilette) stays all day - I sprayed it on a test card, and the scent stayed for more than twelve hours, becoming gentler and sweeter with time. It retains a very mild cologne scent. It is a pleasant surprise. The knowledgeable sales man (I think they put former male models in perfume counters. And all the helpful and knowledgeable ones are men) immediately understood that I was looking for a linden flower scent, which he specified as "Linden blossom."

It's normal fare at $72 Canadian (no tax) for 50ml selling at Holt's. Hermes perfumes are usually expensive. But this is an Eau de Toilette (no "parfum" version, as the salesman informed me). There is nothing smaller than 50ml. I find 30ml more than adequate.

The bottle is an unattractive elongated shape, and the perfume is described as "unisex." Perhaps they are trying to attract the male customers, since with Hermes' signature, I don't think women would be so picky about the bottle. I am though. A pretty bottle and a pretty scent go together. Imagine pulling this cumbersome flask out from one's purse. Even Hermes' latest perfume for women, Jour D'Hermes, is an odd, simplistic square, with an empty base, which seems like a waste of bottle space. But, I will admit that it looks good juxtaposed with the men's fragrance Terre D'Hermes.



Hermes was made famous through the sturdy, leather luggage. Strong bottles travel well, and these contemporary bottle designers may be alluding to the travel and luggage origins of Hermes.
Beginnings in the 19th century
Thierry Hermès, founder of Hermès.
Born in Krefeld (Germany), Thierry Hermès was the son of a French man and a German woman. The family moved to France in 1828. In 1837, Thierry Hermès (1801–1878) first established Hermès as a harness workshop on the Grands Boulevards quarter of Paris, dedicated to serving European noblemen. He created some of the finest wrought harnesses and bridles for the carriage trade. Monsieur Hermès's earned citations included the first prize in its class in 1855 and the first-class medal in 1867 at the Expositions Universelles in Paris.

Hermès's son, Charles-Émile Hermès (1835–1919), took over management from his father and moved the shop in 1880 to 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains today and where the new leader introduced saddlery and began retail sales. With the aid of sons Adolphe and Émile-Maurice Hermès, the company catered to the élite of Europe, North Africa, Russia, Asia, and the Americas. In 1900, the firm offered the Haut à Courroies bag, specially designed for riders to carry their saddles with them.
Here are the notes to Aroma D'Orange Verte:
Created in 1979 it's like citrus fruit in a bottle: oranges, lemons with their stimulating freshness, cheering mandarins . A minty and fruity accord (papaya and mango) enhances the slightly acid character of the fragrance. A patchouli and oakmoss end note lifts up these light notes and gives more character to the perfume.
It is sold as a men's cologne, but it has such a delicate drydown that it might be better for women.

The bottle is nothing special. Perhaps the designers were trying not to alienate too many men and women by making it neutral.



Here is Hermes' classic, which I carried around with me to the last drop. I acquired it when it was know as Parfum d’Hermes, and couldn't find it for a long time. It still has a whiff of the lovely, powdery scent. In 2000, it was re-interpreted as Rouge Hermes, and is available in a slightly elongated version of the round, compact design, as well as the clumsy, long bottle (signature for contemporary Hermes!).



Parfum D'Hermes, the 1984 classic (the basic notes):
Top: Hyacinth
Middle: Iris, Rose, Jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla

Rouge Hermes, the 2000 version:
Top: Rose, Iris,
Middle: Rose, Vanilla Cedar, Sandalwood, Amber
Base: Amber, Cedar, Spices, Myrtle

The vanilla is the base note in the original, while there is rose in both the top and middle notes in the original.

I suspect the latest version is just a little prettier, with its rose emphasis, and less of the heavier jasmine. But, "diluted" classics is the trend for contemporary trend for perfumes (like everything else?).
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Posted By: Kidist P. Asrat
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